Dethatch: In early spring the first mow should be extra low and dethatch with a comb attachment to clean up matted down grass, twigs, and other winter debris. This gives the lawn a jumpstart by allowing airflow, water, and nutrients to reach the soil. This also allows the lawn to dry out from possible snow mold (light green patches) which develops from damp soil conditions. After everything is cleaned up and bagged, apply organic fertilizer and soil conditioner for a quick green-up.
Core Aeration: Core aerate in the fall to loosen compacted soil from heavy ride on lawnmowers. Aerating is an excellent way to promote stronger root growth and plugging holes provide a unique opportunity to remineralize the root zone and encourage microbes to proliferate.
Overseeding: The best time to overseed is in the fall when weather conditions are optimal for grass seed to germinate. This encourages a thicker lawn that naturally blocks out weeds and reduces unwanted pests. For best results, overseed after core aerating.
Weeds: Spot spray weeds bi-weekly with SpeedZone for broadleaf weeds, DriveXLR8 for crabgrass, or Ortho Weed B Gone Plus for most weeds and crabgrass. Yes I spot spray weeds which is different than spreading weed n' feed across the entire lawn which ends up cycling in the root zone, leading to turf stress. It's best to focus on maintaining a thick lawn to block weeds.
Grub Control: I don't use grub control products because insecticides harm the essential microbes in the soil that we are trying to build up. If the soil is properly balanced, the beneficial nematodes are an effective, organic way to prevent and control grubs.
Mowing: Keep the blades sharp. In the spring mow low at 3.5 inches and more frequently about every 5 days to encourage the grass to spread laterally and fill in bare spots. Alternate between 2-3 different mowing directions to prevent tire ruts. When the soil is active with micro life which it should be if practicing organic lawn care, mulch the grass or side discharge the clippings to feed microorganisms. They recycle them into more nutrients that keeps the lawn greener on autopilot. In July, raise the mowing height to 4 inches and mow bi-weekly to prevent stressing the grass. Towards the end of August resume to weekly mowing and gradually lower the cut height back down to 3.5 inches for the rest of the season. The final mow can be 3 inches to prevent snow mold.
Watering: An investment in a sprinkler system should be protected by ensuring each zone is watering properly. A sprinkler tune-up should be performed making sure sprinkler head nozzles are spraying efficiently, with full head-to-head coverage. Watering times should be adjusted according to weather patterns (Wi-Fi smart controllers can adjust watering automatically). Water deeply in the early mornings while avoiding night time watering in July and August as wet grass can promote disease when humidity is high.
Main Goal: For a better lawn each year, the goal is to get cool season grass to survive through July and August. If the grass is not strong enough it can go dormant to the point of no return, creating bare spots and requiring renovation in the fall. That's why it is important to get a jumpstart early spring and start feeding the soil with organics so the grass is healthy and strong going into summer.
